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Taking it from the top . . . if you are among those who've decided to move up to side-by-sides -- to make the transition from over/unders or semi-autos -- this column will help you catch up with the rest of the class -- those who've discovered the shooting characteristics unique to the side-by-side shotgun. We'll be looking at the three newest 20 gauge side-by-sides to come to the American market in a month of Sundays: BSA's Royal from Spain; Kimber's Valier II from Turkey, and Marlin's L.C. Smith from Italy. Fitting a shotgun to your needs starts at the muzzle. The principle benefits of a side-by-side shotgun are: BALANCE and CHOKE SELECTION. Our three makers have produced virtually perfectly balanced (50%/50%) guns.

You may think that's no biggie, but a "between the hands" balance point of these doubles contributes to their superior handling characteristics. For example, if you are retiring grandpa's old pump gun with 56% weight in the butt, or are switching over from one of these new alloy receiver lightweight over/unders with 62% of the weight in the front end of the gun, you're going to marvel at the difference in the handling characteristics of a perfectly balanced double.

Un-remarked in the specifications is the fact that the "Solid Raised" ribs mentioned here have a small taper from the breech to the muzzle. This presents an optical illusion to your eye, fooling it into thinking you are shooting longer barrels than is the fact. Plus, a solid rib means you don't have to pick out weed seeds when you come home.

All three of these guns come perfectly choked (Improved Cylinder/Modified) for walked-up birds or shooting over wide-ranging flushing dogs. However, if you are shooting pointed birds or clay target games, you're going to want to consider other, more open chokes. Both BSA and Marlin offer optional Skeet choke tubes for these new model side-by-sides. A minor but inexpensive post-purchase hassle that will improve your game by opening up patterns on close targets.

Shooting a long lead hand cures a lot of problems. It helps keep your head down on the stock and makes it hard for you to shoot over the bird (the second most common cause for missing birds). And it helps involve your torso in your swing instead of just your arms. So, if you are tall with long arms, you should be shopping for the longest forearm you can get. American bird hunters seem to suffer with a genetic flaw, which prevents them from touching barrels with bare hands even though it is important to get the lead hand farther out. A cheap out is to buy and use a shooting glove to encourage a longer left arm &endash; so you can cradle the barrels in your gloved left hand. Wave at the Shotgun Goddess if you agree that BALANCE is a good thing. Use your left hand.

On the other hand . . . the first thing that comes to hand (to coin a phrase) is the grip. The three grip styles represented here: Prince of Wales, English and half-pistol are all good birdgun selections. All are superior to a full pistol grip, which might encourage your right hand to dominate the use of the gun. Full pistol grips are for rifles and aiming and scopes and bench rests -- none of which apply to birdguns. Guys who fall into the habit of overpowering their birdguns with their right hands end up "steering" the gun. Usually into poor shooting choices.

The Prince of Wales is quite popular today because it combines advantages of the English grip with a little knob that acts as a keel to help keep you from canting the gun. Even guys with small hands and stubby fingers can have a comfortable right-hand hold with any of the three grips represented here. The half-pistol grip, recreated here on Marlin's L.C. Smith, was at one time the most popular shotgun grip available. Traditionally, the English style on Kimber's Valier II was designed to allow the right hand easy backward and forward movement between the front and rear triggers &endash; and it easily accommodates both large and small hands.

Checkering is viewed today as an art form. The main idea of checkering is to provide gripping surfaces on forearm and buttstock. To accomplish this end, hundreds of tiny pyramids, each with their sharp tip intact provide a non-slip surface for the palms of the hands. Unfortunately, this purpose is sometimes lost in the execution. It is very easy to spoil a perfect checkering job with an ill-timed swipe of a piece of sandpaper, cutting off the sharp pyramid tips and smoothing out the gripping surface.

Machine checkering is quite popular today because it is cheaper and serves the main function of providing an excellent gripping surface. Checkering is sometimes qualified as to so many lines per inch, with a higher number of lines engraving denoting a higher-end product. As a practical matter, coarse checkering works just as well as fine checkering. Maybe better. Or at least as good. Sharpness counts. Tastefully done decorative flourishes, such as the fleur de lei pattern on the Marlin L.C. Smith and the crisply executed pattern on the BSA Royal demonstrate what machine checkering is capable of and adds to the aesthetic appeal of these doubles by giving the grip areas a kind of understated elegance.

All three main trigger styles, (all with automatic ejectors and manual safeties) are represented on these three new 20 gauge doubles. The single non-selective trigger on the L.C. Smith fires the right barrel first, then the left barrel. Since most shooting is done on "going away" targets, this is a perfectly satisfactory arrangement. The double triggers on the Valier II provide, of course, instant choke choice -- long bird or short bird. The safety switch on the Royal acts as the barrel sector. Set to the right and it fires the right barrel first, then the left barrel with a second pull of the trigger. If the switch is moved to the left, it fires the left barrel first and the right barrel second.

Of all the useful things happening at the butt end of the gun, none are more important than LENGTH OF PULL and ADVANTAGE RIGHT (CAST-OFF). American-made shotguns tend to have 14-inch length of pulls and are cast-neutral. Shotgun-fitting is a science unto itself, but the general rule of thumb is that you should have an inch of space between your nose and your thumb when you pull the trigger. Tall guys with longer necks will feel more comfortable with longer Lengths of Pull. Note that both the Royal and the L.C. Smith come with half-inch rubber recoil pads. Rubber pads in the aftermarket come in a variety of thicknesses, up to an inch, so it is no big deal to add another half inch to the LOP to either of these guns.

The ADVANTAGE RIGHT (or cast-off) concept is important to understand. It is a feature built intro most European side-by-sides. By moving the comb to the right when the gun is shouldered, it positions the sight plane of the gun where your right eye is looking. This is the basis of "instinctive shooting" or the poke-and-shoot technique practiced by most birdgunners. The Shotgun Goddess wants to help you do better what you're already doing.

If you are left-handed with a dominate left eye, trying to shoot a gun with cast-off is going to ruin your day. You'll shoot three or four feet to the left of flushed birds. With that much lead built-in, you'll probably do pretty well on birds that fly to the left, but miss everything that flies to the right. This phenomenon is often what diagnoses the problem. Few off-the-shelf guns are available to left-eyed shooters. So, for the most part, obtaining a gun with ADVANTAGE LEFT (cast-on) is going to be an aftermarket process -- probably with suitable sacrifices made to the Shotgun Goddess along the way.

The following excepts from the Shotgun Goddess' Little Black Book will enable you to complete your research with catalogs and brochures for the BSA Royal by calling 954/581-2047; the Kimber Valier II at 800/880-2418; and Marlin's L.C. Smith at 203/239-5621.


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